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Use a dark foundation by two shades of your skin colour. Its
job is to create shadows, to slim, minimize and hollow. So, it should
essentially be matte as any sheen would catch the light and bring it to the
fore.
Highlighter
Its job is to pick out your ‘high’ spots like your cheek bones, brow bones chin
and the centre of your nose. They can be peach, ivory or white with silver or
gold sheen.
Slimming a Plump Face : Shade the temple hollows just in front of the
hairline and create more definite hollows under the cheek bones. Apply
highlighter on the brow bone, blending up beyond the brow itself to bring the
bone forward. Highlight and cheekbone from its highest point along towards the
hairline.
Shortening a Long Face : Blend shader from just under the chin slightly
upwards onto the chin mound. Shade the forehead at the temples, working around
to the hairline and gradually fading out at mid-brow. Lightly shade around the
jaw line. Highlight the cheekbones and brow bones.
Softening a Square Face : Shade the four corner ‘angles’ of the face-the
temples, following the hairline round just onto the brow, the squares of the
jawbone from below the ears to either side of the chin. Highlight the lower half
of the chin, the centre brow down the nose and the cheek bones.
Slimming a Wide Face : Blend the shaders either side of the bridge deep
into the inner eye corners and fairly either side of the nose itself. Slim the
nostrils by shading into the creases. Highlight all along the centre of the
nose.
Softening a Pointed Chin : Blend the shader upwards on the chin.
Highlight the jawbone on the either side of the chin.
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